BODY

ELECTRIC ACCESS DOOR LIFT (4/24/05)
The access door for the Electrical connections  on the GMC are always falling closed.  Here is a $5 solution to the problem
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=3506

Here is a video that shows how it works.  This video takes a long time to load, so wait for the video to appear.  Internet Explorer is the only browser the currently will show the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oN7OmrgCTJY

WINDOW REPLACEMENT MOUNTING SEALANT
Several of our local GMC Club members have been using a "D" Section seal/Gasket that makes the job very easy & the windows can be removed/moved around w/o any mess.  The Sealant is made of EDPM Foam & has a long life duration.  The flat part (1/2" wide) of the "D" has an adhesive for locating onto the window frame.  By placing it slightly inside the frame edge, it will compress upon installation & give you a nice finished edge.  The "D" material will compress to about 0.050" thick as the frame is clamped into place.  The sealant material can be purchased at following:
        Clean Seal Inc.
        South Bend, IN
        800-366-3682 
       P/N   108H2-100  (100 ft roll)
        www.cleanseal.com
        Cost is about $0.25 per ft.
        Normal Minimum order is $50 (200 ft)

this is no longer .25 cents a foot. sold in 25 foot increments only at $3.25/foot! so 100 feet will be $325 bucks! Adam

A 100 ft roll will completely do all windows in coach with some left over.  So for $50 one can do two coaches plus left over.  Well worth the cost & simple to install w/o the mess of an adhesive paste.

This is the sealant between the side window frames (all side windows) & the coach body.  Remove side window frames, remove the old sealant, clean window frame & body, install the flat side of the sealant (self adhesive) and then mount window frame back onto coach.  No messy glue sealant to fuss with & a nice clean finish line between window frame & coach.DUANE

WIPER BLADES
Wiper blade assembly is Trico # 64-200 (silver) or #64-201 (black) The refill only is Trico # 72-200 if you have a Trico blade. I believe Trico was the OEM blade. If you have an Anco blade the refill is Trico# 70-200. The little nozzle for the washers are replaced with Anco# 48-03 that comes with the little screw and nut as well as the hose. All of the above are one per package, not a pair. All of the above likely have to be ordered by your parts house

Anco (5/8" wide) Windshield Wiper Blade Assembly, Silver  Not the
Arm.-------52-20 (Includes spacers and bolts)
Anco (5/8" wide) Windshield Wiper Blade Assembly, Black   Not the
Arm.-------57-10 (Includes spacers and bolts)

Anco (5/8" wide) Windshield Wiper Blade Refill,-------53-20
Anco (1/2" wide) Windshield Wiper Blade Refill,-------58-50
Trico (1/2" wide) Windshield Wiper Blade Refill,------72-200
Napa (1/2" wide) Windshield Wiper Blade Refill,-------60-2008

Anco Squirters (includes the hose and bolts.)---------48-03
Gary W. Mills (Livonia MI)
. ___________

The little nozzle for the washers are replaced with Anco# 48-03 that comes with the little screw and nut
as well as the hose. All of the above are one per package, not a pair. Also, wiper blade assembly is
Trico # 64-200 (silver) or #64-201 (black) The refill only is Trico # 72-200 if you have a Trico blade. I
believe Trico was the OEM blade. If you have an Anco blade the refill is Trico# 70-200. All of the
above likely have to be ordered by your parts house.
Denny Allen (10-22-01)
--------------

COCKPIT  WINDOW SCREENS
As a GMC owner since 1990, I found a flaw in the otherwise almost perfect touring motorhome.  That flaw was lack of air in the cockpit unless the dash A/C was running.   As soon as the motor was shut off, so was the air.  The small cockpit windows were opened and every bug in the area came in for a snack
of my type O blood.   Further, our two little Schnauzers found the easy access to the open windows, via the seats, irresistible.

In 1995, I developed the Sliding Cockpit Window Screens to function just as the window does.  They are always in place ready for use.  Just open the window and close the screen.   They fit inside the window and look like they were meant to be there.  The GMC has the lower track built in, so this kit includes
a new upper track to hold the top of the screen against the window frame.   The screen are contoured like the window and have a rubber seal at both ends to keep the critters from crawling around them. Installation is very easy and requires no special tools or mechanical ability. So far there are about 300 sets of my screens in use all over the US & Canada.

The screen frames are bronze aluminum, with black screen fabric and the track is brown/black vinyl to match the interior window frame.  Each set includes two left & right screens and tracks with instructions.   The fit all stock GMC Cockpit windows, both 23 & 26 foot models.   The add to the benefit of  “wind wings” by keeping the 70 MPH bugs outside

The Sliding Cockpit Window Screen Set  cost $64.00.
                                    Shipping via priority mail is $6.00
                                                     Send check for $70.00
                             Florida people add $3.84 for sales tax
Mail to PAUL DOBBIN
            221 44th Ave. NE
            St. Petersburg, FL 33703

I’ll ship to the address on your check unless you request another address Thanks for your interest. Paul
 
 

Side Rail Low Spot
There is a low spot in the front frame rails that will not let water drain out. This low area is where the large front cross member is attached to the side frame members. Take a side view look at the side rails in this area and you will see the low spot in the side frame.

The side rails are open in the front and will let rain water & wash water enter and collect in this low area of the side rail. The frame will rust from the inside. The right side rail will always seems to be the worse. The engine heat would seem to keep these dry during operation.They must rust from rainfall entering the open front of the frame during extended periods of outside storage or when the coach is washed and put away for inside storage.

I removed the grille and the fiberglass piece below it to get access to the,open front of the frame to clean the rust out and then prime and paint it. I,used a flex shaft on a drill with several types of heads to do the cleaning,& prime/paint. The rear of the front frame section is open where it bolts to,the main frame, so you can use shop air on an extension from the front to,blow the rust & debris out of the frame section.

To get this area to drain, I drilled a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the frame section, in the area where the front stabilizer bar comes across. Drill the hole in the outer half of the "C" section as that is the lowest part of the two piece frame section.
 

This has become the standard upgrade and here are the three ways to do it.
buy them from the Peek Family
http://www.bdub.net/updater/index.html

Cut the body
To see how I did it. Drag your mouse over the pics for instructions. I have had no leaks and the lights are very bright since they are not dissected. Easy as pie if you have a Rotozip (Harbor Freight has them on sale). Very happy with the outcome. HTH  Nate '75GB (lurking in) Omaha
http://www.tconl.com/~chase/gmc_lites.htm
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=3673

Cut the lights
http://www.henry-davis.com/GMC/Taillights.htm

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=3678
-----------
Front Access Cover Supports

Grill Inserts

I have been looking for an insert to put behind the grill of the GMC.  I did not want to restrict the air flow, but I did want to hide the wires, hoses and radiator.  I have been looking for a honeycomb pattern like the Dodge trucks, but was not able to find a suitable material.  I have decided to use the plastic egg crate panels with 1/2 inch squares, used for florescent light fixtures.   I wanted black but could not find that so I used the Chrome.  Chrome is black in the shade so guess it is close enough.  One panel does the trick, it cost  $20 and was easy to attach using the same bolts that hold on the Grill.  I sort of like the looks of it and it does hide the insides. gene

REAR FENDER FLARES

These flares were designed and made by Claude Brousson ,along with some suggestions from one of the original G.M design artists. They were made with two purposes in mind--to add to the beautiful lines and symmetry of this classic vehicle and to make the rear wheel area more accessible for inspection and serviceing,for example keeping the rear boggies well greased. Small plastic covers are supplied to keep the grease nipples clean and covered. The original 8.75x16.5 and more recent 225x16 tires fit very nicely and with ample clearance in the lower corners. There is reduced clearance with the larger diameter 9.50 tires. Cost is $275.00 US. Contact Claude Brousson,Phone 250-652-4913 or cbrousson@telus.net

    I think we are all trying to get back to this classic line of the original  foot clay model. gene

Here are the pictures of Claud's flares    Click here for details

Isolation pads
The pads are very important.  They provide isolation from the frame for noise, cushion and space for some tubes.  It is a good idea to replace them but for sure it is a good idea to put them back into position.  The recommendation is to use a flat pad  between a jack and the bottom of the coach and jack the coach away from the frame just a little.  This should let you slide the pads back into position.  Some folks have stuck them in place with something like silicon goop or weather strip adhesive.  The pads are sold by Cinnbabar Eng. and Curtis's

http://www.bdub.net/curtis-unlimited/index.html

 Other pads have been recommended such as , raw recap rubber, and cut down truck mud flaps.
Here is a picture of where the pads are located

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14837

Here is a step by step procedure

http://www.bdub.net/Isolation_Pad_Replacement.pdf
by John Shotwell

How can you tell if they need replacing?

First check to see if they are still there. The 73 and perhaps the 74 models used a long strip which usually stays in place. Later models used the shorter pads and many GMCs are missing them and the body is sitting directly on the frame in many places.

Do your cabinets rattle? Can you feel road bumps? Is your interior more noisy than some other GMCs that you have ridden in?

In my case, more than half of them were missing. After installing new ones I found all of the above improved. In addition, my fuel tank filled up easier. A line must have been pinched where it goes between the frame and body.

My air cleaner also had more clearance under the motor box cover.

A hint when replacing them --- put a short piece of 2x4 just behind the frame against the floor and jack it up a little. This should give you clearance to slide in the pad. Put some "Liquid Nails" from a tube onto the pad where it meets the frame and it will help keep it in place. It also acts as a lubricant to make it easier to slide in the pad. In a couple of cases I used a small ball peen hammer and a block of wood to hit against the side of the pad to get it to slide into place. Also drive a sheetrock screw up through the pad into the floor. This will also help to keep the pad from slipping and moving out of position in the future.

do you have to drop any tanks to do this?

No, the frame rails are outside of the tank area. You can do this while lying or squating alongside the motorhome.

Loosen the Ragusa Step
  JimK is totally correct. You must remove two of the bolts that hold the step or when you jack up the body you will crack the two attaching legs of the step that bolt to the frame.
 
Do you have to loosen the body mount bolts?

I did loosen one of the front mounts but when I attempted to loosen another one the carraige bolt just turned in the floor. So, I tried to jack things up with the 2x4 against the floor and it gave enough clearance to slide in the new mount. So I did the other side without even trying to loosen the mounts. I did not attempt to replace the little pads below the four mount plates and I dont' think that was necessary anyway. They don't come with the kits anyway.   EmeryC

SILICONE SEALERS
Although hardware store "clear silicone" is commonly used for RV leak repair there are a couple of things wrong with use of this material for leak repairs on our GMC's.With the exception of very small localized application for temporary repairs, I rarely use clear caulking since it never stays clear. During application clear silicone gives the impression that it will remain invisible inviting a spread of caulking beyond where it will do any good.Since silicone is so good at picking up dust and dirt it immediately starts to change color to match the soil color of the countryside it resides in making it much more obvious than it began (unless of course the appropriate color match was dirt). Choosing the best solid color caulking helps maintain self control during the tooling of the caulking, increases the likelyhood of masking to prevent the spread of the uglyness and increases the likelyhood of cleanup prior to serious cure.

Further since the formulas used to create silicones are so variable one should be careful and pick the appropriate formula for the job. As one example, one thing I never do is to use an acid cure (vinegar smell) caulking anywhere near steel. The acid cure silicones can be identified by the warning on the tube of the strong smell during cure. When used on steel acid cure silicones promote rust. While I recognize that the upper cab window and window area is primarily aluminum and fibreglass there are fasteners in that area that may in some cases be some sort of coated steel.

Another example is the use of silicone to seal between the windshield gaskets and the body.  If the leak is caused for example by water coming in through the cavity between the windshield gasket and the body silicone might stop the water entry by filling the gap.  In this case a black neutral cure silicone may be O.K. If properly applied and tooled. If properly tooled with a soapy water solution (palmolive is good) dirt imbedment during cure can be reduced. Since silicone and the EPDM that the gaskets are made of are incompatible the silicone will never stick to the gasket but it will sure stick good to the body so best get it off the paint before it cures too completely.

I will never forget the months it took me to clean and replace the clear silicone the previous owner used on my old SOB, but it sure looked/worked better once the fix was complete. Gary Zingle

In Dry Weather
 One method is to pressurize the coach with a very low pressure fan, wash the outside of the coach down with high sudsing detergent and watch where the leaks blow bubbles. Use a washing brush to investigate every seam. Air will blow bubbles even where water will seep in. This is the same technique in finding an air leak in an inner tube. It doesn't take much air pressure
 to blow a soap bubble.

Leak Check Seminar Pictures
More pictures by Kelvin on how to connect a blower(2/2/6)

 High volume low pressure fans are used to pressurize balloon buildings, toys and advertising.  The pressure is low enough that you can walk in and out of the "blown up building" without really feeling the pressure change. Check the safety dump valve to make sure that pressure cannot be built up inside and blow something out.  chuck

I got the same results by running the roof air (or fans that draw air in) that produced enough inside air pressure to cause soap bubbles on the roof and around the windows. Im sure if I replaced the worn  felt in the window track. Rob

Clearance lamp mounting pads are now available.   They are die cut black foam like the originals.  Price is $2 each including shipping.  If interested please contact me directly - not on the list.

carguy@clover.net

.  Price is $2.00 US each including shipping to any point in USA or Canada.  Please mail your check to:
Bill Brown
741 Sheridan Rd.
Coshocton, OH 43812-2771

Doing your own Fiberglass Repairs

Arch

Fiberglass work is not hard to do. I will tell you how I do it and you may
do as you please. First I try to keep all of my work on the back side of
the finish. This way glops and gobs don't show. If you have some places
where material is gone then first place a piece of polyethylene (most
common drop cloths) over the area. Then back it up with something
with a little stiffness. If the area is small cardboard is fine. Larger areas
use 1/4 inch plywood. Make sure there are no wrinkles in the poly. The
fiberglass does not stick to the poly and it will leave you with a very smooth
surface. If the damage is in an area with some contour to it get some
modeling clay and go to the other side of the vehicle and make a mold
and do what ever you have to do to make it right for the other side. Mount
that on your backer board and cover with poly. I usually use duct tape
to hold all of this in place. Make sure it can't move around on you.

Now this is a quirk of mine and I will state that. If you have long cracks
in the fiberglass body go to the end of the crack move in the line of the
crack out about another 1/2 and drill a 1/2 inch hole. This will disperse
the forces around the hole instead of in a straight line. I said to move
out 1/2 inch because the fibers are probably damage farther out than
you can see.

Go buy a fiberglass kit that fits your needs. You will want to buy at least
twice as much glass cloth as you need because you will want to put
down two layers. Next I like to rough up the area where I am going to
glass over. Put a wire brush in a drill and rough it all up a little go at
least
2 inches beyond any cracks and what ever. There are probably lots of
thinners you can use to clean the area. Acetone is often recommended.
For all of use who can get it in the hardware store--good. Some areas
wont let them carry it. Go to the cosmetic area and buy cheap nail
polish remover----same thing. Now if it looks like there has ever been
any silly-cone in the area. Go to your local body shop supplier and get
some "Final Prep" of something like that. Its a real strong solvent. About
$10-$20 dollars a gallon----but good stuff.

Now cut some of the cloth to fit the areas you need to patch. Make
pieces to fit all of the broken areas. Then cut a piece that will cover
all of the damaged area. On the small areas lay the glass on with the
fibers laying not vertical and horizontal but /////\\\\\\ Then on the big
piece let them run vertical and horizontal-----||||||. I sure hope you
understand that----if not holler----I will try again. Mix up the resin by
what the can says. Here are a few tricks. Take a small amount of resin
and add what would be more than enough hardener. It will change color.
You now know what color it should look like when you mix the real thing.
If when you mix the real batch it does not turn that color add some more
hardener. Another trick if you are going to do this on a hot day---you may
have trouble with the resin going "off" before you want it to. The whole
reaction is an exothermic one. Heat speeds it up. Put the resin and hardener
in the reefer the night before. Got two containers to mix the resin in. One
that is larger than the other. Fill the outside container with ice then put
the inner container inside it and mix resin. If you line the container
with Poly you can reuse it. Put the glass cloth down in the resin. Work
it with your hands. Make sure it is all the same color. Work the resin
into the glass cloth. Place the cloth on the body. Work our ALL air bubbles.
Best to start in the middle of the patch and work out toward the edges.
Fix all small areas and come back with the big piece. Let set up till hard.

Then remove the material on the outside of the body. Fill in holes with
Bondo and sand. Suggestions: Get some rubber gloves---some people
have a nasty reaction to resin. Get some sort of breathing filter even a
cheap paper one is better than nothing. Wear some kind of goggles.
You do not know the meaning of pain until you get hot resin in your eye.

Hope this helps.Arch
---------------------
A couple of  glassing hints I have done are are:

1.  Use as little resin as possible.  The strength is in the glass not the resin.  Extra resin actually weakens the patch.  Use only enough resin to fully saturate the glass.

2.  Take some tongue depressors and cover them with gray duct tape.  Immediately after applying the glass and resin to the crack, clamp the area between the duct tape covered tongue depressors.  (You can cut them to size if necessary after the duct tape is applied.)    A couple a squeeze spring clams will hold the tongue depressors in place.  This will give you a very smooth, thin and stronger patch.  It also helps to compress the glass into the resin.  The resin will not stick to the duct tape and the tongue depressors can easily be removed later.

3.  Remove the clamps after the patch is setup but not rock hard.  At this point you can still trim any excess glass and resin with a pair of scissors.  High spots of  excess resin can be easily be ground off with a Dremel tool at this time.

4. Resin cures by self-generating heat.  If you have a problem with setup time or time to cure, gently heat the area with a heat lamp or hair dryer to accelerate curing time.  Be careful not to overheat or burn anything.

After all the cracks were patched I did not need to sand anything.  I bought white vinyl paint used to paint vinyl seats and painted the cap.  This stuff is available at Home Depot ot Menard's in spray cans. This vinyl paint is very flexible and does not crack after drying.

You can not find the cracks anywhere in my front cap now.  I also glassed over some of the cap mounting holes and re-drilled new ones after painting. Ken Burton