Need info on installing aluminum radiator & new 2 piece shrouding. Anyone have problems with this? Thank you in advance. Lanny Young ====================================== It was fairly smooth to install. I think I had to move one or two rubber mounts and open up the fill spout area on the radiator frame. I had the whole frame out and fit it all on the bench. While out I painted the frame, cut the sides about three inches up and added attachment bolts to make the bottom of frame removeable. This allows easier removal of rad if necessary in future. HTH......... ====================================== Lanny, Your engine will run considerably cooler than with the old rad. So cool that you may notice coming down long descents on the back side of of a mountain pass, that engine water temp has dropped below what the water temp gage will read. That means that your heater will not put out heat, and because engine oil is also cooled by the radiator, the result of cool/cold oil will drive up your engine oil pressure. That being the case, I would suggest that you run a *synthetic* 5w-40 or something like that so that you have adequate lubrication, when the oil temp drops. I speak from experience here...so take it for what it is worth. The aluminum radiator is an excellent choice...just comes with some adjustments... Larry ====================================== Lanny, Steve Ferguson ====================================== Steve, We have modified the radiator by extending the width of the core by 1/2 inch which moves the radiator cap away from the frame. The rubber support on the drivers side don't need to be moved now We also extended the height of the filler tube by 1 inch to make the cap removal easier. If you use a cap with the red release lever on top it really makes it easy to remove and install the cap. We have made 10 modifications to the radiator since yours was made based on feed back from people to make the radiator easier to work with. Some modifications are very minor and looking at the radiator you probably wouldn't notice them, but some like the two I mentioned really helped in the installation and use. The first three or four made had an oversized outlet nozzle that made installing the hose difficult. The fellow making the radiator misread the diameter of the outlet by 1/8 inch and we caught that from feed back from people. Feed back from people is very important to us and Griffin is quick to make changes for us. Gene Dotson ====================================== Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 09:13:26 -0700 Thanks Gene, Steve Ferguson ====================================== I did the same as Steve with the isolators, information that by the way that is *not* included in an install sheet. One other thing that is not mentioned in the instruction sheet, the trans cooler that is built into the radiator is physically located at the bottom of the right side tank. When you look in the hose outlet at the bottom of the radiator, my first impression was that the cooler appears to completely block the outlet. Mine had no more than 1/8" clearance all of the way around the lower hose outlet. Don't let it bother you, apparently there is more than sufficent flow in spite of what appears to be an apparent blockage. Also make sure you ask for the brass adapters to adapt your 3/8" trans lines to the radiator trans cooler...another thing I didn't find out till I was well into the install. ====================================== Changing the radiator is easy. We changed mine is about 3 hours. I poked the front of the GMC over a hill slope from my driveway, and dropped it out the bottom with the frame. I did not cut the frame as I don't think I'll need to address the radiator again. I had to move one rubber isolater, other than that, it was a very easy install. Enjoy, ====================================== |